I was 16 and we lived in Germany and my dad was driving to a meeting in Paris, so I was on my own for a full day at 16 and it was a day that still is fresh in my mind. I did not have much cash, so I was not buying stuff, just walking in a pink gingham dress and pink flats and big BIG eyes drinking it all in. I must have weighed about 170# (I'm guessing) as I walked all day and did not pause often. My theory was to look as if I knew where I was going, so to avoid being targeted as a foreigner. I had a fine day, only once being so pestered that I marched straight for a gend'arme directing traffic in the center of a roundabout (not a lot of cars, else I'm sure I'd have kept to the sidewalk). I was being pestered by a man who followed behind me commenting in a way that made me wary, asking me to walk with him into a park that I knew was not a really good place to walk, so I veered off and marched straight to the gend'arme and he made a grand bow to me, taking off his cap and sweeping his cape, all very grand. As I glanced back, the creep was nowhere to be seen, so I grinned at the dashing young copper-haired cop with a beautiful handlebar moustache (also copper) and marched on!
It was a beautiful day. I later found my way to the mosque and a slew of gend'armes behind barricades who were clearly NOT expecting a teenager in pink gingham in their midst. They told me the mosque was closed and waved me off. It was 1961 and a time of unrest in France's colonies, so the mosque must have been expecting some trouble. Anyway, I did not visit it that day but on another visit, with my mother - not as comfy in Paris as I was and not much fun to travel with, as she cursed a man in German for daring to offer to take our pix. A scam? Sure. But not worth acting hostile or swearing in German! German, if you can believe that. She's from Ohio, as I am, and she acted weird, using German on a man old enough to remember German occupation in WW2, which I pointed out to her as we walked on past the man. She and I did a lot of museums and ordinary tourist stuff. Bo-o-oring.
So my one day on my own at 16 was the best memory of Paris I had. Sigh.
Still as fresh today as ever. Me, walking easily in pink gingham! All day long. Later that night, my dad and I were taken to the Folies Bergere and to Les Halles for onion soup gratinee among burly butchers in bloody aprons. The usual tourist stuff, arranged by some American family living in Paris. I recall a daughter, but was not much interested in what they offered - not after the day that I'd had on my own. The women in Folies Bergere looked as bored as I was. The onion soup was delish. The next morning my dad and I drove back to Germany. I think it was a full day's drive. Oh, and he walked me a bit up and down the Champs Elysee that I'd been tromping all day long, saying to me "this is the champs (he said it American) eee-leee-say" - as we walked among others strolling in the night. It was quite a day. I walked. I really did.
Paris was my first experience with room service. I absolutely LOVE room service. I was made to live in hotels, to enjoy room service, as I remember it from the George V - my dad traveled first class - and from the seedier places my mother and I stayed on a later visit. I thought that I'd live in Paris, as it felt like home to me. But my sister is the one who returns again and again to Paris, to a hotel in the artsy part of Paris. She's the traveler, not I. Strange.
But this is mostly about butter. Unsalted butter curls on ice. Ah, Paris!
Last edited by Zer : Mon, Aug-27-07 at 18:58.
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