I gave up veganism – and the science says other midlifers should too
Instagram influencers may claim it will save the planet and cleanse the body, but research suggests veganism isn't the holy grail of health
Flic Everett
If your GP prescribed a diet which carried twice your current risk of breaking a bone, would you happily stock up on the ingredients? Or might you wonder why on earth anyone would adopt an eating regime that requires specialist shopping and NASA levels of nutritional knowledge, whilst threatening a skeleton as brittle as winter twigs?
This week, research was published suggesting that vegans are at almost twice the risk of broken bones as meat-eaters. As yet, it’s unclear whether that’s because vegan diets tend to lack calcium and protein, or due to the fact that vegans tend to be thinner and have less padding to break their fall. The long-term study also began in 1993, when vegan products were less available and unfortified – now, an entire industry is dedicated to adding supplements to animal-free products and the average vegan has a full supermarket aisle, rather than a dusty Tupperware stack, to choose from.
Still, to “follow the science”, it’s increasingly apparent that a vegan diet isn’t necessarily healthy, unless it’s meticulously planned to include fortified foods and milks, added vitamins and bonus omega-3 capsules. Yes, it can help to stave off certain cancers and heart disease, but it can also cause weak bones, exhaustion, anaemia and severe vitamin B deficiency – a factor in dementia.
I know all this because for three years I was a committed vegan. I was editing a vegan food magazine, and had access to all the nutritional information out there. But I was also busy, and failed to eat like a celebrity with a dedicated macrobiotic chef and a nutritional analysis app. As a result, I developed a severe nickel allergy and permanent exhaustion.
As a peri-menopausal woman, my diet was doing me no good and, after a headmistress-y lecture from one of the many specialists I visited in search of a diagnosis, I introduced sustainable fish and dairy again. Even a pescatarian diet carries a 25 per cent higher risk of broken bones, according to the study, but as a bleeding heart animal lover who doesn’t want to destroy the planet (and went vegetarian in 2005), reverting to a full meat diet feels impossible. Increasingly, however, purely for health reasons, I’m wondering if I should.
Yet despite the ongoing scientific studies suggesting that pure veganism is not the nutritional holy grail, one look at social media suggests that if, we all turned vegan overnight, not only would the planet immediately be saved but we’d all live to be powerfully bendy centenarians on a “rainbow” diet of grains and vegetables.
Over the last few years, the number of vegan recipe accounts has expanded like chia seeds in water (actually, they make a revolting gel, like slick frogspawn, despite featuring in every other recipe).
While some suggested dishes are carefully planned to include protein and vitamins, there are thousands where visual appeal is prioritized over any health benefits, with endless streams of “Buddha bowls” – a collection of disparate grains, pulses and vegetables that have apparently achieved zen by not including meat or dairy.
Then there’s ersatz vegan replicas of mainstream dishes, like tofu “fish”, eggless pancakes and whipped fake cream, “facon” sandwiches... few ever question whether a constant diet of either replacement foods or pure vegetables is healthy; the very fact of its moral goodness is enough to garner strings of approving heart-emojis.
It would be fine if these were just useful suggestions for eating less meat (I am all for that). But many of the Insta-influencers promote themselves as nutritionists, dispensing well-meaning advice and health wisdom, which often directly contradicts qualified dietitians.
It’s also a fact that most of these glowing chickpea-gobblers are under 35, and too young to feel the effects of any nutritional loss. For those of us chugging into our 50s, however, particularly women, a balanced diet has never been more vital, as menopause weakens muscles and thins bones.
When I consider what constitutes a good diet now, I often think of my grandma, who sailed through middle age slim and fit, and lived healthily to 87. Her post-war diet involved plenty of home-made chicken soup, daily fish or meat and veg, not many puddings and a gin and tonic every night. We don’t yet know how the recent veganism boom will affect our health long-term, but as I age, I’m inclined to listen to experts rather than a gorgeous 23-year-old grinning over a plate of roasted quinoa.
In my heart, I’d love to be vegan again. But my body isn’t so keen – and increasingly, it seems that hoary old recommendation “everything in moderation” is the best diet advice there is.
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