Just wondered if anyone has recently started bike riding? I am interested in starting some additonal exercise. Currently walking 3 days a week and water aerobics 3-4 days a week. I have a bike in my shed.... Just wondered if anyone recently started and if they want to share. ( now this sounds kinda silly for asking!) Thanks!

Did some ask about Bikes?

Let me say this first. I am a serious cyclist so I can inundate you with "stuff". That being said:

1. Get to a GOOD bike shop! Stay away from Kmart, Walmart and any of these low price department store models. If you think that cycleing can be a form of exercise that you might stick with, it is important that you get good advise on what is out there now. So many advances in bike equipment have been made that you might be suprised.

2. Get something that is a bit "better" then you think you need. Why? It is an exercise format that does benefit from good equipment. If you have good equipment, you will like it better, have a better chance of success for the long term, and all that other stuff. Good bikes go faster then bad bikes, "gooder" bikes go even faster yet. LOL

3. Don't be afraid to dream about where a bike can take you. I have 4 bikes. 2 race, 1 mountain, 1 cross country tourer. Now, you don't need to go THAT insane but keep in mind that no bike does everything well.

4. SERIOUSLY investigate all the gadgets and accessories that a good bike shop can offer. Rideing shorts, gloves, helmets, fancy bike peddles that you clip to your fancy bike shoes (LOL), and such all have a place. Yes, they can add up to a bit of sticker shock at first but in the LONG RUN, they will enhance your rideing pleasure which, in turn, should help you stick with it.

5. Find a bike club in your area to learn as much about cycleing as you can so that you can enjoy it sooner. There is a bit of homework I recommend beginners do. It is critical that you learn good riding habits and how to PROPERLY shift that darn thing to get the most pleasure. Call it a little "Riders Ed."

OK, How much cash? Well, to be honest, you don't need to own $6,000 of bikes like I do. However, I would tell you to consider investing a minimum of about $500 in a new bike and ESSENTIAL accessories. I priced out a new bike for my wife and the necessities and it came up to about $750 and it was a great starter mountain bike. Why so much when you can go to Kmart and get a $90 huffy? Quality, weight, equipment. For $90 you get a boat load of garbage and frustration if you want to have some real fun and these bikes are often put together by untrained kids who will reverse cables, install shifters up-side-down, and every other back yard mechanic error you can imagine. DON'T DO IT! If you do, it will also wind up getting dusty in the garage.

Bottom line, riding a bike is not hard. Getting total enjoyment takes time, practice, effort, and good equipment. It is a bit of a gamble to do it right the first time if spending a few hundred dollars is a major issue. But, if you want to make cycleing a life-long exercise and use it to take you to the next step in fitness, then it is a good gamble to take.

Hi! I had been thinking about riding for awhile and bought a friend's old 10 speed for 25 bucks, because I wanted to make sure I would actually do it before investing. Best $25 I ever spent! It needed some work so I went to a bike shop to get the cables done and new brakes. Also bought a comfortable seat, that makes all the difference in the world! And got a little speedometer/odometer thing, that inspires me to go faster/further than I normally would.

I would love to get a nice bike but am unemployed at the moment. So I look at garage sales and in the garbage! When I get a steady job again, I will probably invest in a bike, because I really enjoy it. It doesn't feel like exercise to me.

Good luck to you!

EllenAlesa

I started biking 2 years ago. I was 260lb at the time and let me tell you, it was a workout to go up a hill.. Today I am 230lb, still too heavy for a bike, but I am in a much better shape.
I started by taking my bike to work (8 miles each way), and today I can log 50 mile on one saturday mornning. It is a good workout, and it is so much fun. Most of the time I ride alone and it is a very "cleansing" experiance....
As the poster above says, get a good bike, gooder then you think you need. Get good shoes, and shorts. I got a Giant OCR1 (road bike) and I love it.

Do lots of reseach so you'll know what you are buying and how to compare bikes and prices..

Keep in mind that you can upgrade a bike as you can afford. Some items like fancy peddles and cleated shoes can be added as you go along. Initially toe straps are a MUST and stiff soled shoes are very helpful.

Essentials: (besides a bike in good working order)

1. Bike shorts. Helps keep the bum happy and at the same time helps keep you cooler. (Fancy shorts can be cool looking too. LOL) Look at http://www.performancebike.com for the wide range of options both for this item and those I suggest below.

2. Gloves. They protect your hands from road shock and in case of a spill can protect them from being scraped up real bad.

3. A gear chart. This doesn't need to be kept with you during a ride but knowing this information will make an incredible difference in learning how and when to shift gears. If you want details on how to make a gear chart, let me know. I have an excel spread sheet that makes it simple to figure it all out.

4. Helmet/brain bucket/noodle strainer. Debated by many serious cyclists but newbies should start with one.

5. 2 water bottles and cages to hold them to bike. Insulated water bottles are nice.

Nice to have:

1. Bike computer. FIRST NEW ITEM TO GET! Most are not too expensive at all. ($20-40 should get you a good one with great features.

2. Fancy peddles and shoes to use them. I recommend SPD type of peddles for most uses unless you are really concentrating on some SERIOUS goals on a road bike. A bike shop can show you a wide assortment of peddles allow you to see what the heck I am talking about. SPD peddles are well suited for most riding because most of the shoes that you get with them have the cleat recessed thus you can walk on them without looking like a duck. SPD peddles are available in dual sided models that allow you to "click" in on either side. SPD peddles also have "float" which allows your cleats/feat to swivel a bit from side to side. For novices, this is a great way to avoid knee problems. SPD peddles are the peddles of choice for mountain bikes. (peddle and shoe combos for about about $150 or less can be had for entry level use.)

3. Water packs for use on longer rides and/or in hot weather. These carry up to 70 oz of water and you drink from a tube. This is nearly an essential if you start to work up to rides of over 2 hours or 1 hour in hot summer weather. DRINK OR DIE! LOL (As little as $25.)

Sorry, I'm getting long winded.

Bottom line. These items will increase your ability to go faster, further, and enjoy the trip. There is a lot you can learn about cycling and if you get bit by the bug, you have a sport you can do for quite some time. Good equipment makes that a fun prospect.

Amen to that. Good bikes are more responsive, and a LOT more fun. It's the difference between driving an old beat up station wagon and a sports car.

With a bicycle, you can actually go places. You are not limited to the same 3 to 5 mile routes that you go when you walk or run.

Hi! You said you're not limited by a bike as you are with walking, and I agree totally. Also, I tend to be a bit lazy so I like the fact that I can coast. That way when I DO manage to get up the hill, I can cruise around on flat ground to give myself some recovery time. And in the hot weather, you get a nice cooling breeze!

One more word about buying a bike. There is a point in the price scale of bikes that you start paying for weight of the bike (or luck of). the difference between a 20lb bike and a 18lb bike could be as much as $700!! for me and many on this board who has to lose 15 or more lb, it would be silly to pay $350 a lb lighter bike, it is much more cost effective to lose the weight, no?

what I would look for is improvements in the "groupo" (Italian for the set of hardware components ) which consists of shifters, derailers (the thingy the moves the chain from gear to gear), brakes, and such. Most bike makers chose an single EOM set and build the bike around one Groupo, ex: Shimano 105, where all the components are from the same set and "grade".

Better components make a better more reliable bike which is more fun to ride. If you have to stop in the middle of a hill because your chain came off, riding will not be fun..

But again, the is a point of diminishing returns on the components as well. when you go to the top of the line on components you will pay hundreds of $$ for little improvement.

another thing to look at it the material of the frame. the most cost effective frame is made of aluminum. The more comfortable frame (it flexes better) is a steel alloy, the lightest (more expensive) are made of carbon fiber.. I bought an aluminum frame and if I had to do it a gain, I would have spent $60 more to get a steel alloy frame, this is after I have gone over a pothole at 20 mph with out being ready and the shock has gone up my butt and elbows... not fun..

do lots of research. all the info is available on the net and even a newbie can learn enough to make a better buying decision.

One last thing. make sure you get the right size bike. for beginners the more important size is the length which is measured in centimeters for road bikes and inches for mountain bikes. Some bike makers have developed a frame geometry that allows them to make only 3 or 4 frame sizes that fits all, and some still make bikes in increments of centimeters. for beginners to midlevel riders both types could be fitted to the rider. BUT you must make sure that you get the right size for you or you'll be very uncomfortable riding.


phew! my longest post on here.. sorry.. have fun..

If you are serious about a bicycle go to a local bicycle shop. A good shop will have a fit kit and will measure you and put you on the appropriate size bicycle. After you have been fit for a bike then you need to ride as many different models as you can in your price range. I would say a descent entry level road bike is going to be between $500 and $600. There are many models in that range made from assorted materials with assorted geometries. Ride them all. Go home think about it. Come back ride the two that you liked the best, then buy the one you prefer. Comfort and fit vary quite a bit manufacturer to manufacturer. A Trek, Giant and Specialized bike will all fit and feel different. At the entry level price range the quality of the bikes are all about equivalent. So brand is much less important than comfort.

A good shop will let you ride the bikes and they will not pressure you into one model or the next. They want you to be satisfied. They will also take the time to show you how to remove and install the wheels and how to shift and some basic matenance as well. Shifting is important.

When it comes to goodies to get with the bike, shorts are a good choice. They are designed so that there are no seams where you butt hits the seat. Cycling shoes are a good idea as well. They have a stiff sole and help you pedal by not deforming on your pedal stroke. A HELMET and water bottle an extra tube, patch kit and pouch to hold it all are a must. Only a fool rides without a helmet. Brain damage and broken collar bones are the two most common cycling injuries. It is easy to hit your head if you fall. I know somebody that ended up with brain damage because he was too "pro" of a cyclist for a helmet. One crash less brain. Racing in the USA at all levels requires helmets so all the pros in this country wear helmets when they race. Some of the europeon countries don't and I have seen riders die of head injuries in races such as the tour de france.

The differing frame materials do affect ride quality, but the frame geometry also affects the feel and handling of the bike. And again all (bike shop) entry level bikes are basically the same quality.

One other thing. You will be able to find accerories cheaper in Perfomance and Nashbar catalogs, but it is your local bike shop that is going to be there to help you enjoy riding. There to fix your bike when it breaks. I suggest you pay the little bit more money and support your local shop so that when you need them they are there.

Once you are set up the shop should be able to point you to a cycling club. The club will give you people to ride with and learn from. Riding is safer and more fun in a group. There is almost always someone on the ride that can help you with a flat tire etc.

I speak from experiance because I worked in a bicycle shop for over 4 years while going to school.

Hi Dug,

I agree with most of what you said, but right now I don't have $500 to spend. I expect my finances to improve sometime within the next 90 days or so, but for now I'll have to make do with my $25 bike, which I love. I think it's better to start where you can and go from there than it is to wait, because otherwise I may never get started. I also wanted to make sure I would really ride before I went out and bought all the best equipment, only to decide this isn't for me, and waste all that money.

I do look forward to the day when I can get a really nice bike, and I bet once I ride one, my little 10 speed will seem like a joke!

Ellen

my first 10 speeds came from peoples trash and then I fixed them up and rode em. It wasn't until I rode my first "good" bike that I really understood the difference. The "good" bike was soooooo much nicer to ride. You can look forward to the day you can afford a nice bike. You will be suprised how nice it makes riding, especially if you already like it even on the "junker"

Dug, I agree! I also will want to learn how to do some simple maintenance. Basically, I grab helmet and water bottle and ride right now. I have some fix a flat type stuff w/me in case I blow a tire far from home, a nd I love my odometer. Would like to learn how to change an inner tube and whatever else I should know to be independent.

Hello all! I've been on vacation and wanted to revisit to thoughts mentioned up line.

1. I would add that carbon frame bikes can have the best of most worlds (at considerable cost) because they can be formed for excellent bottom end stiffness (side to side flex) while at the same time being flexible in ways to be soft in ride. Ah, but there is much debate about the "lively" feel of a great steel frame as compared to any other material.

2. I provided a link to some bike wearhouses but I do want to echo dug's comments about the role of the local bike shop. I do buy most of my stuff locally but there are a few odds-n-ends that I purchase via catalog. I NEVER buy a bike via catalog nor do I buy much in the way of big ticket items that way either. My friends at the bike shop I have frequented for over 2 decades know my face very well!

This was just the thread I was looking for!

By way of brief introduction, I live in Colorado, one of the mountain biking (and road cycling) meccas. About 12 years ago, I was really into biking the trails around the area but during and after college I stopped, put on the pounds, etc.

Now I'm very interested in getting back to some "beginner's level" mountain biking but have a few questions. The first and most basic is, at my current weight (270 lbs.), should I even be looking at hopping back on a bicycle yet, or wait until I've dropped more weight? In other words, do I stand to do more damage to myself (strained muscles, etc.), and a new bicycle (are there even models capable of carrying that much???) now than if I were to wait?

If the answer is yes, if I purchase a "beefed up" bicycle for my current weight, what would that mean down the road as I continue to lose?

Finally, what do you guys do regarding nutrition. I've been reading numerous cycling magazines recently and - while I'm a long way from doing any endurance cycling - I've noticed all the articles/ads about keeping your energy level up while riding suggest foods/drinks that are REALLY HIGH in carbs. I understand why that is the case - quick energy supply - but how do those of you who ride and are low-carbing at the same time handle that dichotomy?

Thanks, I look forward to the replies...

I posted this in another topic here:

http://forum.lowcarber.org/showpost...29&postcount=14

Also, please take a look at some of my web pages. I have been on a very similar path as you. I don't think it is un-reasonable to have 2 bikes but that is up to you and your budget.

http://home.insightbb.com/~athuddri...ikes/bikes.html

I love my mountain bike still and have just brought it back on line for my night riding as the sun is starting to set too soon for my likeing. LOL Let me tell you that you should avoid "cheap" mountain bikes with suspension because they are too hard to tweak to our weights. Even a typical "good" mountain bike with just fork suspension is set up for a rider around 150-170 lbs. To improve that you will probably have to upgrade the springs to the stiffest possible and perhaps use a slightly heavier oil in the strut to help keep the fork under maximum control. I don't think a full suspension bike is good for general purposes unless you are going to get into some seriously rough terrain. My Trek 8000 is a great compromise for trails and extended commuting.

As to eating, my previous link should sum up my genral opinion. For ME, I will add carbs for rides of more than 2 hours but I will add carbs based on heart rates/effort so no 2 rides are the same. It takes some experimentation to find combinations that work best. I'm still experimenting. LOL