Cauliflower: The sky is the limit

By Natalie Haughton, Food Editor

Article Published: Tuesday, March 02, 2004 - 7:10:29 PM PST

http://u.sbsun.com/Stories/0,1413,2...1992245,00.html

Cauliflower - that white, nondescript, compact flowery-looking vegetable is usually remembered from childhood days when it was served overcooked and soggy (and even smelly), smothered with yucky, rubbery American cheese. Too bad! Many don't know what they're missing.

"It's versatile, delicious and one of my favorite vegetables," says Lee Hefter, executive chef/partner at Spago, Beverly Hills and Vert, Hollywood, adding that it's very underrated.

"Countries where vegetable cuisine reigns, notably India, treat cauliflower as royalty," writes Elizabeth Schneider in her compendium "Vegetables From Amaranth to Zucchini: The Essential Reference." "But in this country cauliflower is barely bourgeois - never aristocratic - primarily because it is carelessly chosen and cooked in ways that fail to enhance its mild sweetness, creamy pallor and delicate crunch."

But the tide may be turning.

Lately, cauliflower has become the darling of the vegetable set - with low-carbers using it to make faux mashed potatoes, as a stand-in for potatoes in a variety of potato and other salads, shredded as a substitute for rice and more. With its low-carb content (one cup cooked has 5 grams carbohydrate and 3.3 grams dietary fiber), it's no wonder. Even if you're not watching carbs, cauliflower is a great choice with just 30 calories in a cooked cupful.

".. cauliflower is The Great Fooler and makes a terrific substitute for rice, potatoes and even bulgar wheat or noodles," writes Dana Carpender in her recently released "15-Minute Low-Carb Recipes."

To make cauliflower puree (fauxtatoes, as Carpender calls them), microwave cauliflower florets in a casserole with a couple of tablespoons water, covered, on high power (or steam, if desired) until tender but not smelling like sulfur. Drain thoroughly, then puree in a food processor or blender with a little butter and salt and pepper to taste.

For potato salad, microwave florets on high power with the water clinging to them in a covered dish. Check after three minutes; you want them a bit soft, but not falling apart and mushy. Toss with a variety of dressings - curried mayo, traditional mayo, sour cream/mustard/dill pickle, sour cream/barbecue sauce, herbed sour cream, wine vinaigrette, hot bacon, etc.

Marissa Mitchell, a former personal chef to some of the stars, began making faux potatoes with cauliflower two years ago, when she cooked for Quentin Tarantino.

"I was trying to make something that had the consistency of mashed potatoes and experimented with different vegetables."

For best results, press all the water from the cauliflower with a towel, she advises. Her version includes a little whipping cream and a couple of tablespoons each (mixed in by hand) of butter, grated Parmesan cheese and goat cheese.

Mitchell, who since September has been executive chef of Pure Foods Inc. (a low-carb food company with stores in Beverly Hills and Santa Monica) suggests trying other flavor variations on the puree theme - such as cream and crumbled bacon, basil and Parmesan cheese, curry or Indian seasonings or cream, butter and curry. Or puree roasted vegetables like leeks or squash with the cauliflower.

Mitchell also uses steamed cauliflower instead of pasta in mac and cheese, and a good salad combines blanched cauliflower with balsamic vinaigrette, mustard, a pinch of herbs and shaved Parmesan.

At Spago, Hefter serves cauliflower several ways - including tossed with Indian spices, salt, pepper, a little sugar and cumin seeds and roasted (on a sheet pan) until tender but not mushy. He accompanies the florets or wedges with coconut or cilantro chutney and serves them with langoustines in a curry sauce. By itself, the spiced cauliflower also makes a good vegetarian dish.

A curried cauliflower soup topped with warm dungeness crab is another winning menu selection, as is sauteed skate served with a puree of cauliflower and topped with caramelized cauliflower tossed with capers, raisins, toasted almonds, chopped parsley and a squeeze of lemon juice. An individual cauliflower gratin topped with bread crumbs "is a beautiful alternative to potatoes and is served with roasted leg of lamb with olives."

Cauliflower makes a good canvas for a wealth of flavor combinations as well as dishes with Mediterranean, Indian, Asian and other overtones. The ideas here may give you a new outlook on the underrated vegetable.

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Natalie Haughton, (818) 713-3692 natalie.haughton~dailynews.com