Mom's Favorite Salads, Homey and Hearty

By Martha Schueneman

Special to The Washington Post

Wednesday, May 21, 2003; Page F01

link to article

[Emphasis added for low carb below - ed.]

Potato salads seem to be the provenance of mothers. Flip through cookbooks -- including those of fancy chefs -- and in almost every one you'll find a recipe for Mom's Potato Salad. Most are based on the recipe on the back of the Hellmann's mayonnaise jar, though moms tend to make the salad their own by adding anything from cubes of cheese to sliced olives to peas.

Potato salad's big advantage is adaptability. In some parts of the country it isn't potato salad if it doesn't have pickle relish, while in other regions if you add it you're likely to be run out of town. I tend to be a potato salad purist. I'm not intrigued by inventive combinations or fusion flavors: Potatoes may well be delicious with grapes and curry powder, but I'm happy to stay with the tried and true.

There aren't many rules with potato salads, though there are a few steps you can take to ensure success.

Do your best to use the type of potato called for in a salad recipe, particularly if the potato is to be boiled. In general, low- to medium-starch potatoes are better for salads than are high-starch ones are, but there are some exceptions.

High-starch potatoes, such as russets, have a dry, floury texture and a thick brown skin. They're ideal for baking, since the oven's dry heat renders the starch fluffy, but peeled and boiled russets tend to yield spud sludge. If you boil them whole and unpeeled, or cook them in the microwave and peel them before chopping you'll have much better results.

Low-starch potatoes such a red bliss have a waxy texture and a thin red skin. They hold their shape when cooked and, because they contain more water than do high-starch potatoes, they are less likely to absorb liquids.

Medium-starch potatoes include all-purpose potatoes (white-fleshed, with thin tan peels) and yellow-fleshed ones; Yukon golds are the most common of these.

Once the potatoes are cooked, drain them and let them cool for a few minutes. You don't have to peel them, though you may find that the peels pull off as you slice or chop them.

It's the rare potato salad that doesn't improve if made ahead so the flavors can blend, but I find that raw onion, garlic and scallion can become too assertive if the salad is made more than a few hours in advance. A brief saute tames these pungent ingredients and keeps them from overpowering the salad's other flavors.

Some cooks are careful to tell you to dress the potatoes when they are warm. I haven't found that warm potatoes absorb dressing more readily than do cold ones -- how much they absorb seems more related to their starch content -- but I have found that tossing warm potatoes with a bit of broth or vinegar before dressing them makes for a more flavorful salad.

Although most salads are fine served at room temperature or even slightly cool, those made with meat, particularly bacon, are better served hot.

If you are following a special diet, most potato salads can be made with light -- not fat-free -- mayonnaise or sour cream. For lower-carbohydrate potato salads, simply replace some of the potatoes with other vegetables: Toss in peeled and steamed broccoli stems, chopped green beans, half-moons of zucchini or yellow squash, thinly sliced carrots or cubes of kohlrabi.

Classic Potato Salad

(6 servings)

Inspired by the recipe on the back of a mayonnaise jar, this mild and creamy rendition of potato salad is the quintessential accompaniment at a backyard barbecue.

The basic recipe is adaptable. Vary the herbs, add other vegetables, toss in diced olives or omit the pickle. Whichever version you choose, make it a few hours ahead so the flavors can blend.

2 pounds red-skinned potatoes, scrubbed

2 tablespoons cider vinegar

1 cup mayonnaise

1 teaspoon honey mustard

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1/4 cup pickle relish or finely chopped dill pickle (optional)

4 large eggs, hard-cooked, peeled and diced

1 medium shallot, finely chopped

2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf (Italian) parsley

Place the potatoes in a large pot, add a good pinch of salt and enough cold water to cover the potatoes by at least 1 inch and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, partially covered, until the potatoes are tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Drain the potatoes, then set aside until cool enough to handle.

Peel and chop the potatoes, dropping them into a large bowl. Sprinkle the potatoes with about 1 teaspoon of the cider vinegar and set aside to cool completely.

Meanwhile, in a medium bowl combine the remaining vinegar with the mayonnaise, mustard, salt and pepper to taste and, if desired, pickle relish.

Add the eggs and shallot to the potatoes, spoon the dressing over the mixture and gently fold until the potatoes are completely coated. Cover and refrigerate until chilled through, at least several hours.

Sprinkle with the parsley just prior to serving.

Per serving: 437 calories, 8 gm protein, 26 gm carbohydrates, 33 gm fat, 155 mg cholesterol, 5 gm saturated fat, 329 mg sodium, 3 gm dietary fiber

Baked Potato Salad

(6 servings)

This hearty potato salad -- loaded with cheddar cheese, bacon and sour cream -- is a much simpler take on twice-baked potatoes.

2 pounds russet potatoes, scrubbed and baked

2 slices bacon, diced

2 scallions (white and tender green parts), thinly sliced and separated by color

1/2 cup grated sharp cheddar cheese

1/3 cup sour cream

1 teaspoon Dijon-style mustard

1 teaspoon sherry or white wine vinegar

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Peel the potatoes as soon as they are cool enough to handle, discarding the peels. Coarsely chop the potatoes, dropping them into a large bowl. Using a fork, lightly toss the potatoes until fluffy but still slightly chunky.

In a large skillet over medium heat, fry the bacon until it renders some of its fat. Add the white part of the scallions and cook until the bacon is browned and crisp. Remove from the heat; set aside.

Meanwhile, in a bowl, combine the cheese, sour cream, mustard and vinegar. Scrape the mixture over the potatoes and gently fold until the potatoes are coated. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the bacon and scallions to the potato salad, leaving the drippings in the skillet, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle the salad with the scallion greens. Serve immediately or cover with foil and warm in a low oven.

Per serving: 239 calories, 7 gm protein, 39 gm carbohydrates, 6 gm fat, 16 mg cholesterol, 4 gm saturated fat, 192 mg sodium, 4 gm dietary fiber

Martha Schueneman is a freelance writer specializing in food and nutrition. She last wrote for Food about kale.