I don't have a TV and so I haven't watched Anthony Bourdain. My cookbook for Japanese cooking is "Japanese Cooking: A Simple Art' by Shizuo Tsujii - it is the classic, like 'The Art of French Cooking'.
I know Anthony Bourdain is a chef because I read his 'Kitchen Confidential' - if he talks about the cuisine of a country, he is approaching it as a chef might, not someone who eats their daily meals there.
There is great variety of protein sources (fish, meat, tofu) in the Japanese diet, but meat is a small part of what is on the plate. Rice, white rice, dominates.
Sukiaki, which is a dish many Americans like, has very little meat in it. The Japanese mother in a family (transferred here to the States and I met them through school activities) taught me how to make sukiaki (which she pronounced 'skee-aki'). Even given access to so much meat here, they hardly use any at all in a dish like that. If I had to describe Japanese cuisine to distinguish it from other, more familiar cuisines, I'd say it seems very watery - that dashi is just everywhere, diluting most dishes. Dashi is broth from fish flakes and kelp, nothing else.
Japanese housewives usually add granules of dashi to liquid instead of making it, it's just that ubiquitous, like bouillon cubes.
Breakfast - rice and something from the night before's meal - on top, like a condiment - and dashi.
No, I don't think Kobe beef is a main ingredient - maybe in Anthony Bourdain's diet when he visits Japan, but not in the diet of the average Japanese person. Noodles, rice, sea vegetables, fish, and I would put meat (small amounts) last.
One Japanese boy told me that his family thought that if he ate an American diet, with so much meat, he would grow taller.
The 'tuna casserole' or 'mac n' cheese' of the Japanese schoolboy/schoolgirl is curry.
In particular, the favorite was something called Vermont (the brand) curry, served with lots of rice.
We had several summers of hosting Japanese kids. The highlight of their stay, before going back to Japan: going to the supermarket and buying food to show mom and make a meal back in Japan. They always brought us Japanese food, as gifts, too - and one girl cooked my husband's favorite Japanese dish, which is a pancake seasoned with seafood, topped with mayonnaise.
I also remember asking one girl if the Japanese food we were eating in a Japanese restaurant here was authentic. She said 'No, it's American 'Japanese' food', which is too bad because I thought I was giving her a real treat.
I did learn to make decent sushi. Which the Japanese kids thought was something because back in Japan, you eat that at home maybe once a year.
These kids were middle class and one was probably kind of rich since his family owned their building in Tokyo. That's like Manhattan real estate.
My favorite Japanese dish (from the Tsujii book) is a kind of gruel that is popular when someone comes home and roots around in the refrigerator, after a long day at work, or hungover from drinking. It's just rice with dashi and maybe some egg.
Soy sauce on everything, too. You don't even have to ask.
Favorite Japanese food for entertaining (and a classic, showing up everywhere, in restaurants and at the table when eating in a Japanese home): a custard called chawan mushi, very watery compared to our egg custard, savory, and of course, containing seafood and made with dashi.
Japanese kids' favorite snack (we learned to make): mochi cakes. Just contains rice but packed so dense that when you bake it and it puffs up, there's not so much air there as gooiness. Japanese eat it during holidays, too. Every year, a few people choke to death eating mochi.
My own (American) kids got sick of Japanese food pretty quickly. What they loved when eating at a Japanese home: edamame, boiled fresh green soybeans. It's a snack good enough to be served to guests.
What's funny to me is that edamame can now be found on American supermarket freezer shelves. Mochi cakes can be found on supermarket shelves, too. But they are not the mochi cakes that I described - they are snacks made with rice to resemble something between a rice cake and mochi. We've Americanized them to make them palatable for our consumers. And a sushi bar in an upscale supermarket is just as normal as the deli section (I'm thinking Whole Foods).
A very good, prolific writer about Japanese cuisine, breaking it down for the non-Japanese, in particular, American reader, is Elizabeth Andoh. She has had a long marriage to a Japanese man and lives in Japan (with some breaks to live in New York, I think). She is the Julia Child of Japanese cooking to me - maybe Tsuji's book is more like the definitive classic for the Japanese cook - and I once wrote her an e-mail and told her I'd love to write her biography. She wrote back that she was flattered but she is not dead yet! I read that she was very honored that Tsujii aknowledged her skill.
Last edited by mathmaniac : Tue, Dec-15-09 at 09:13.
|